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lovely. One of those noses from the Newton Court Black Mountain or Jörg Geiger CBB22 stable – not just about overt pear fruit, there’s a stoniness here too. Rainwater and seashore pebbles. Cut grass. Really clear and clean and elegant.

In the mouth: The bottle fermentation has worked perfectly here – the mousse is beautifully integrated. It’s dry and crisp with a citrusy nibble of clean acidity and a touch of body from the very light tannin. Again the pear is complemented seamlessly by gunflint and elderflower and green fruit. It’s all elegantly harmonised – there’s no one particular shouty note. As an aperitif perry this is superb, and something I would pour for absolutely anyone. Less